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I've had my pro pointer for about 2 years. Just recently the power button works fine to turn it on but sometimes it won't turn it off. I have to grab the edge of the button and pull it outward to get it shut off.
Common problem? Easy fix? Time for a new pointer?
You can peel the rubber cover off the switch and get an eyeball on it. Maybe the switch is just dirty, try blowing some air through it. And maybe a small drop or two of silicone spray on the end of a toothpick to lube it.
If the switch is bad, it'll have to be soldered out and back in. There's a pile of vids on YouTube if you're handy with an iron. It's not an uncommon repair, so wouldn't be surprised if it was bad.
Thanks for the advice. I'll take a look at it and the videos this weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trooper Bri
I wore out 2 pro pointers in only 3 years. They wouldn't turn on.
I poked around a bit, but don't see where anyone has found these switches outside of Garrett. I'd be happy to repair them for you guys if I could source the part.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trooper Bri
I didn't check the youtube cuz I dont have the garrett. Is it really a special switch? Check Jameco, Digikey, or Mouser if it looks like a standard type of switch but say the slider cover is a plastic piece made to go on the switch. Each piece may be 46 cents plus shipping.
This happened to me. I just called Garrett and they gave me a pair of new buttons free of charge... worked like a charm after that! I think I just wore my button down and I believe that could be your problem too. GL and HH
What did they send you Isaac? The whole electrical switch (6 pins I believe) that solders onto the board, or does the base of the switch stay soldered and you replace the guts?
I just saw the YouTube of this. One guy added length to his coil/sensor wires and added a momentary switch. The 6 pin switch im sure u can easily obtain. Sifting thru choices if not from garrett is the issue. Ugh. I am glad I went with the vibra probe. No switches. The battery attaches by the normal 9v push-on connector. It has auto shut-off after a min of non-use. Only it's a dirt magnet and a little bulky in comparison. They need to market one with capacitive-proximity on-off sensors. I'll compare it to touch screens. It will have two sensors on the handle so only when your hand is gripping it, will it turn on. Idk whether time-out switch-off or when you remove your hand would be best. The latter may save battery life like whoa. Just remember to put it into the holster instead of carrying it. Sorry ska, this one is more like a "how can they make pinpointers better" than a "how to fix".
I doubt Garrett engineered a simple on/off switch for the ProPointer. They picked one out of a catalog, and it's not as sturdy as the rest of the unit. I just need one in my hands to at least try ordering from dimensions/specs.
And I'll disagree with you on this one Jim. Making the pinpointer better is definitely where Garrett dropped the ball. They could make a Rev.B version with a beefier switch, but they don't appear to be doing that. Which doesn't help Ska or Daddy in the afterwards.
I hate signature flaws that render a quality item useless and costs the unknowing $$. Especially over a 50 cent part. I've repaired a lot of stuff over the years on the cheap for myself and friends. Here's my last one. A headlamp bulb on my friends Caddy this summer engineered so bloody awful, you have to pull the fascia to get the capsule out to access the cover on the rear. I forget what they quoted him. Something redonkulous. I only charged him a case of Coronas and a few limes since cars are built like Legos these days.
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I found a switch on ebay and watched a few youtube vids so I think I'll be able to do it. If not, my son assembles electronic circuit boards for a living so he might just get a shot at this as well. Switch should be in by next weekend.
Ska, I did hear a guy in one of the videos say he picked his up from ebay. The 26 min video where the guy destroyed the switch I don't understand why he first left the coil attatched while removing switch and then unsoldered it to put switch on. I would advise not to keep turning the board over as much as he did because the enamel coated wires are made of soild copper which we know is fragile. He even said the joint where coil attaches needs to be good solid connection so why mess with it? The other way you can remove old part is to cut just the leads at the switch and have the actual switch come off and then desolder the individual leads. That's more of how it gets done in repair shops and a little less effort than he put forth and less chance to damage the board with a razor.
Bri, exactly how are you disagreeing with me? Did you forget where I work? The majority of companies use mostly off the shelf components. Only with special functions will they bother to design and manufacture their own components or use vendors for proprietary design. I just know digikey has 25,000 of push buttons alone so searching for one that works takes some sifting to get like 50 equivalents. And I said Garrett had the weak link in the design for their pinpointers. My comment about how pinpointers can be made better is only for future design. I explained it didn't really affect the items they own now. I do own a GM and I too have to pull front fascia forward to access the headlights. I do my own work so I never got quoted to replace a simple bulb, which people used to be able to do on their own 10 years ago.
You guys changing these yourselves..."Do you have a solder station with irons with pencil tip tips?" Those 6 soldered connestions requiring de-soldering neatly, are ergonomically challenging unless you have a station with clamps, a solder sucker, and you gotta be very dexterious. All I'm saying is that if you aren't setup, and you haven't acquired skills beforehand with intricate soldering/desoldering of small components, you're more likely to destroy more than repair.
Last but most important...getting the innards back inside can easily break your new switch. Just sayin'. I am lucky. I can drive to Garretts in less than an hour. For a small fee, they'll do the job in about half an hour. Could I replace mine myself? Yes but it would take time and an upgrade from my simple 25 watt iron. In my personal case, it just ain't worth the time and effort. Garretts is too close to me for simple paying a fee and getting it done right.
I've been soldering for 30 years and have experience with SMC's, IC's, etc. Irons or hot air. Getting 6 pins off the board is cake for me.
UPDATE - I sent my pro pointer to Brian along with a new on-off switch I bought on Ebay. He removed the old one and replaced it with the new one in no time at all, and shipped it right back. We've got great people on this forum!
Brian is AWESOME!!
Glad to help Karl. It's the least I can do to pay forward support I've gotten from you guys. Plus, you read my clad filled reports. :lol:
I went through a bit of time and effort to find a switch and replace it. So I did it again and made a detailed video showing how to open the unit, remove old switch (or fix switch), install new one, and put unit back together.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBZT...ature=youtu.be
Here is a link to switches as well: The switches I found use all 6 pins for switching (both sides of switch) while it seems the factory Pro-Pointer only seems to use one side of the switch (3 pins). In my opinion this should be a better connection...
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/ON-OFF-replac...AAAOSwMVdYEpqG
Hope this helps