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Thread: Cleaning Coins with Fragile Patinas

  1. #1

    Cleaning Coins with Fragile Patinas

    Ave!

    A few weeks ago, we received an English copper coin, George/Britannia, dated 1747, from Drew for cleaning/restoration.

    The 1st photo is as received - a very thin and extremely fragile green patina, edges crumbling on both sides.
    Name:  Brit 1747 .jpg
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    Coins like these are difficult to clean, due to the dirt vs patina: even using a bamboo skewer or a dried rose thorn may be too harsh. Even soaking in distilled water is not a good idea.

    We suggest that you clean similar patina coins dry...sort of; more soaking in DW never really helps. In the case of Drew's coin, I only used SpitnPolish and a felt bur in a pin vice. Once the dirt was removed there was nothing else to improve the coin.

    As seen in the 2nd after photo, the reverse has issues. The yellowish latter half of this coin is NOT patina, but rather a oxidized bubble of patina that never set. Even light brushing with the felt bur would have/may have collapsed the bubble...so I left it alone.

    Once removed of dirt via the above, we used Ren Wax to restore the patina color and to preserve and keep the crumbing patina intact.

    Name:  1747 after .jpg
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    It is what it is. Never ask more from your finds than what they will reveal. Never be in a hurry. Ask for advice.

    Best regards,

    Kevin

  2. #2
    Administrator del's Avatar
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    Kevin you definitely brought out the coin's more appealing patina coloration and the coin also has better definition of the images featured on the two sides. The ren-wax will keep the surfaces from deteriorating further for a long time . Well done

    Dan
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  3. #3
    Elite Member coinnut's Avatar
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    It's always a tough call on colonial coppers. At first glance, coming out of the hole, the coin look like the dirt will just peel away revealing a nice scar free copper. But if removed you may end up with a corroded slug I have been nicely surprised by many coins, but utterly disappointed by others.
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    Full Member Robbie's Avatar
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    The date looks more clear before cleaning,you lost the 4

  5. #5
    Elite Member coinnut's Avatar
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    Yeah. Colonials are tough. Sometimes what you see coming out of the ground is a shell of what used to be there. Once you disturb that shell you are left with nothing That is one reason to get as much information on a coin right when you find it, cause by the time you get home, the dirt dries and peels away showing only a slug. It always comes down to the type of soil and the true preservation of the metal. Areas of lime deposits usually give you better preserved coins.
    Finding relics is in my blood

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  6. #6
    Administrator del's Avatar
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    I think this is a great lesson for us who find the colonial coins here in New England , to be able to identify the more fragile patinas (yellows and browns) from the more stable ones (Greens) .

    So Kevin in your opinion what would be the best way to keep these fragile patinas stable , say from the time we recover them from the moist or wet dirt to the time we bring them home to evaluate their condition and i'd'ing them. let them dry out , keep them moist or placing them in water right a way??

    another question is does coating a coin like with ren-wax thwart your efforts to clean it or can you easily and carefully strip the wax off to clean it and then reapply it after your process.

    Thanks ,

    Dan
    "Honesty is an expensive gift ,
    so don't expect it from cheap people"

    XP Deus II , DFX ,TDI sl -

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  7. #7
    I sent Kevin my Machin Mills copper and I feel he did a good job. Some coins just can't be improved much. I do think Drews coin does look a little better
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  8. #8
    It hasn't arrived back as of yet. I actually forgot about it, then I saw this post
    On Instagram- oxshoedrew

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by del View Post
    I think this is a great lesson for us who find the colonial coins here in New England , to be able to identify the more fragile patinas (yellows and browns) from the more stable ones (Greens) .

    So Kevin in your opinion what would be the best way to keep these fragile patinas stable , say from the time we recover them from the moist or wet dirt to the time we bring them home to evaluate their condition and i'd'ing them. let them dry out , keep them moist or placing them in water right a way??

    another question is does coating a coin like with ren-wax thwart your efforts to clean it or can you easily and carefully strip the wax off to clean it and then reapply it after your process.

    Thanks ,

    Dan
    Ave!

    For ancient coins I always recommend keeping them in DW between cleanings, but not for colonials like these. Rinse, allow to dry, gentle scrubs, repeat until you're pleased. Then Ren Wax and buff. Multiple coats will add more beauty.

    Best, Kevin

  10. #10
    Elite Member The Rebel's Avatar
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    Very interesting article! That's for posting.

    What is your take on using olive oil? I see so many that use it (myself included) while others say not to use it.

    Where can you get this ren-wax stuff?
    Minelab Manticore / SPECTRA V3i, Pro-Pointer II. Lesche Digger.
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  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by The Rebel View Post
    Very interesting article! That's for posting.

    What is your take on using olive oil? I see so many that use it (myself included) while others say not to use it.

    Where can you get this ren-wax stuff?
    just order it online Roger, it lasts forever.
    Visit my metal detecting you tube channel to watch some of my digs.
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  12. #12
    Elite Member coinnut's Avatar
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    It's real name is renaissance wax. We call it ren-wax for short.
    Finding relics is in my blood

    GPX 5000, CTX 3030, E Trac, Vista Gold

  13. #13
    Elite Member The Rebel's Avatar
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    Thanks guys!

    Quote Originally Posted by coinnut View Post
    It's real name is renaissance wax. We call it ren-wax for short.
    That's what I thought, but didn't want to assume
    Minelab Manticore / SPECTRA V3i, Pro-Pointer II. Lesche Digger.
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  14. #14
    Elite Member coinnut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Rebel View Post
    Thanks guys!



    That's what I thought, but didn't want to assume
    It's a bit pricey, but it goes a long way. I think I paid $27.50 for the 200ml can on fleebay. That is the big can....I have a lot of stuff to coat
    Finding relics is in my blood

    GPX 5000, CTX 3030, E Trac, Vista Gold

  15. #15
    Administrator del's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by coinnut View Post
    It's a bit pricey, but it goes a long way. I think I paid $27.50 for the 200ml can on fleebay. That is the big can....I have a lot of stuff to coat
    before you go crazy with that stuff this winter just remember its for inanimate objects so keep it off your Wife and the pets
    "Honesty is an expensive gift ,
    so don't expect it from cheap people"

    XP Deus II , DFX ,TDI sl -

    Click here to view my finds album


  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by The Rebel View Post
    Very interesting article! That's for posting.

    What is your take on using olive oil? I see so many that use it (myself included) while others say not to use it.

    Where can you get this ren-wax stuff?
    Ave!

    I'm no longer a fan of olive oil other than in salads. Although it is mildly acidic, it's real mess to work with and, after long soaks, can turn green patina's black. Distilled waters is best.

    Our NRC shop had ren-wax in 1oz for a lot less than $27. ;-) A little really does go a very long way. http://www.nobleromancoins.com/produ...products_id=99

  17. #17
    Elite Member The Rebel's Avatar
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    Thanks Maya!
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  18. #18
    Elite Member giant056's Avatar
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    I know exactly what you mean about that fragile patina Maya, certain area's that I hunt here the soil is very hard on coins and I've learned not to do anything to them til I get home and carefully investigate. I wish that I would have done that years ago but I guess that's how you learn. A good name for the dirt would be swamp dirt(muck) that's one of the worst.

  19. #19
    Oh man, I have this issue a few weeks ago. I found my first Drape bust 1798, I got it home put it in some warm water and now, sadly I have a flat copper disc with a 7 on it
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  20. #20
    Elite Member The Rebel's Avatar
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    Just bought the 65ml can and am going to use it on my 1803 DB. I'll post some before & after pics.
    Minelab Manticore / SPECTRA V3i, Pro-Pointer II. Lesche Digger.
    Oldest Copper: 1694 William & Mary Halfpenny. Oldest Silver: 1663 1-Reale
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