Whites coinmaster 1000 series 3

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Bg09

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I've just bought this one knob detector and have found very little about it anywhere. I realize it's from 1980 and not the ideal choice but it was very cheap and after some work on it, it actually works! Anyone had this model or similar that can give me some tips? Thanks from upstate sc..
 
It's an on/off dial, it has a low battery light, a speaker and a headphone jack. I've used it a few days and whenever it sounds off its guaranteed to be something in the ground, but it ranges from 8" to 1/4". I'm finding all trash, even thin tin foil wrappers.. I guess that's part of it but when I laid down a small piece of 18k gold, it didn't pick it up.. If I turn the knob until I hear a sound like the manual says, I pick up any and everything, if I turn the knob up to about 3/4 it pulses and wen I detect metal it stops, the manual isn't clear or rather doesn't go into any detail other than turn it on, crank the dial until an audible tone sounds and then go at it.. Lol.. There has to be more to this one knob that I'm not getting..
 
Seems from the manual that the knob turns the detector on, sets the threshold (maximum operating sensitivity) and the third thing it does sounds like it ground balances the machine. That may be the reason that you null out when you crank it too high. Sounds like you must only set the control until you get a slight threshold and no more, or you unbalance the machine. One knob does it all :lol: And it is not unusual that it will not pick up small gold. Many machines do not hit on gold. It does not list the operating frequency, but it is probably low and will not hit on fine gold. It should hit on larger gold like rings. Try it out at a tot lot (kids woodchip play area) and see if it finds any nickels or gold.
 
I have, and am continuing to fool around with it when I get extra time, sorry for the 3 month long lapse in my response, lol.. I actually found this thing underneath a big pile of scrap metal at the recycling center, brought it home and popped in a new 9v battery and she came to life.. The plastic part that joins the coil to the aluminum shaft (ground loop isolated?) was broken and it was hanging only by the wire, so instead of thinking about ordering one, or that they'd even still have it, I mixed up some epoxy and let it dry overnight and put a big piece of heatshrink tube over it for added strength, I also got a roll of super 33 electrical tape and wrapped the wire around the entire length of the shaft to not get it caught in briars and other debris, but I read somewhere today that the wire is wrapped around the shaft in some kind of specific manner, is this important? Now that I think about it I've never seen anyone secure the wire to the shaft, they're usually wrapped loose with a little sag. I'd also wondered if it would be OK to disassemble the electronics and spray the internals with a electronic cleaner, the knob is hard to turn after the on position and kind of sticky. Maybe it'd be best to leave well enough alone and to use it but if I can get it cleaned up it'll possibly function better. Last question, can I put a discrimination knob on it and easily attach to the board or is that not a simple undertaking? I've found myself with a little more spare time lately and gonna hit a few spots I've recently drove by and would like to get it ready.. Thanks for any help and glad I found a knowledgeable forum..
 
I wouldn't spray the main internal components with anything other than air, it's not going to do anything beneficial. If it was mine, I'd replace the electrolytic capacitors, as they've likely dried up over 30 years. The on/off pot you can try shooting with a gentle contact cleaner. Just a couple quick shots at first. If there's old lube in there binding, you just want to loosen it up a bit and not flush everything out. It's an item I'd also consider replacing if she's a keeper.
 
Follow the instructions in the Whites manual but also make sure that when you do the area that you are starting in is clear from targets so you don't ground balance them out. It's definitely a dig all detector for sure :grin:
 
Trooper Bri said:
I wouldn't spray the main internal components with anything other than air, it's not going to do anything beneficial. If it was mine, I'd replace the electrolytic capacitors, as they've likely dried up over 30 years. The on/off pot you can try shooting with a gentle contact cleaner. Just a couple quick shots at first. If there's old lube in there binding, you just want to loosen it up a bit and not flush everything out. It's an item I'd also consider replacing if she's a keeper.
Click to expand...

I agree with Bri. Now the adding a discrimination knob... is that changing existing potentiometer or adding something separate? Without having a schematic nor the circuit board in front of me I can't tell if there are more than one pot to that knob. So instead of saying it's ok to clip leads and add jumpers, it's safer to say not to add anything. Replacing the knob, Bri already said that if you are gonna save it, maybe change it. Twenty five years is a long time on a mechanical component. The on/off contact is rated for so many cycles and I am sure the contacts have stuff built up. If you are confident and know for sure what you are doing, then change it. Otherwise if you know someone who does solder repair have them do it.
 
OK, wow, you guys are waay over my head on some of the terminology, but with time and research I have been able to learn a lot of things. I am on the right track with the level of knowledge all of you guys have so let me try to lay this out where I can understand..

"If it was mine, I'd replace the electrolytic capacitors, as they've likely dried up over 30 years"

I used to hang out at a cb shop years ago with an old timer that tuned cbs and built amplifiers, as far as knowing what everything is, I don't have a clue, but I've welded most my life and have pretty good faith in my soldering skills, I doubt it'd be perfect but I'm confident it'll hold, I will have to buy a new iron because mine is cheap without the ability to change temperature, so, Trooper bri, if I took several photos of the circuit board could u identify it?


OK, now what I meant by adding a knob is this, most metal detector have at least two, I believe it's a discrimination or sensitivity knob, I've seen a few vids on how they added a knob to a tesoro compadre and wondered if I can do mine the same, I guess I'm trying to modify it to make it do more, but I'm sure the opinion will be to buy a new one, I've looked and researched and can't find anything bad about tesoro compadre, later if it still proves the best value I'll buy one, but for now I guess I'm just trying to get more out of this one.. Also the wire goes into the box, can I solder a plug and have it plug into the box? You guys have been amazing help, I appreciate the comments
 
I did stumble upon a pic of the unit itself online after an extensive search. For some reason there are very few pics. Electrolytic capacitors are made with two aluminum foil plates sandwiched with two layers of paper with an electrolytic oil. They tend to dry out over time. My Samsung TV had the big supply capacitors go on it after 5 years. They have something like 5000 hours life time rating. I changed them out and it worked. Here is a pic of electrolytics.
Capacitors.jpg
The round orange style or green ones aren't electrolytic. Look for the line on the case to show polarity.
Unless you know for sure it is a supply cap versus a filter cap, I would just keep it the same capacitance value. I probably don't have to warn on using too small of voltage rating seeing as this is only 9V supplies. But you can always use higher voltage rated if there is clearance inside the machine to do so. Only the supply caps can be higher capacitance.

There was a forum I found by searching for schematics. There is no schematic I found online for this model, but the forum said if you email White's they should provide them to you. I can tell you what to do to add discrimination knob if I see the schematics. There wasn't anything online I searched for that said someone did such thing. There is plenty of room inside the case to just drill a hole and put a panel mount trim pot and add a knob (maybe buy two if yours is missing a plastic knob like the one i saw for sale.. btw it's 99 cents on ebay if you want another one. LOL) And then have leads (wires) to the board. It looks like the only thing holding the board is the nut for the knob.
Whites 1000.jpg
Adding a connector... yes it can be done. From the pic I have, I can't tell if there are two white and two black, or just one of each (hidden behind the hinge). You just need to hit up digikey, mouser, or jameco for a panel mount and one matching for the wires. Might as well if you get other parts. But try to find a connector that you can swap coils if needed (if there are other sizes that might work)... just in case. And..you have to make sure the wires stay the same. Reversing the coils won't kill the machine but it wont work as intended.

Sorry for beating you to this Bri.
 
It's all good Jim.

The thing with the Tesoro mod video is there's a small factory setting pot on the board that someone simply transplanted to the control face. Easy enough. If your 1000 has the same thing then it's possible. Post up pics.
Like welding, you want a hot iron to heat up a local spot quickly and get done fast. You don't want to have to hold an iron on a point forever trying to heat it up. That's a great way to lift circuit traces. I run my station from 650-750 degrees depending on what I'm doing on circuit boards. If you like quality products, look at American Beauty Tools for soldering Bg. A station is what you'd need for that work.

Here's a 20" Samsung monitor I had in 2009 Jim that needed the power supply caps replaced. Those X shapes in the tops are reliefs in case the capacitor needs to pop it's top. And you can see mine did a bit. I did the same thing to another Samsung monitor and a 40" TV for friends. A great example of a signature flaw. I wonder how many people tossed out perfectly good electronics over $3.00 in parts.

Samsung3.JPG
 
Not sure why the second pic doesn't show up. Wow... simple as they get. I can see the CD4024. I think that's the clock divider for oscillator. The three yellow and C1 are the electrolytics. They don't look bad but looks aren't everything. That looks like a "custom" pot. Stacked type with common shaft. There's a possibility still to add two different ones. Just need that schematic. Email whites to get it.
 
It's simple alright, I can't move my left arm from digging a boot(trunk) full of rusty iron this morning. I've heard of been and dig but geez, this is ridiculous! Lol.. All jokes aside, I really got a belly full today, I didn't dig a thing worth anything, and NOTHING was 2-3" deep, it was all 8-10"deep.. I completely blowed out a brand new extendable handle pick/rake in the hard clay, but I did enjoy it.. I can tell already that this one would be perfect for my 8 yr old, if this was fishing she'd be getting one bite after another.. I'm assuming this doesn't have different tones, and I'm sure the old timers knew when to dig and when not to dig, I turn it on, roll the knob until it screams, back off until she stops and slowly swept it across an old school yard from back in the 40s and found nothing interesting other than what appears to be a foot off a old sewing machine or something similar. I did some mods of my own last night, not electrical but a way to easily hold it without breaking my arm, but it sounds like you can get me on the right track with the extra knob, I'll email Whites and post asap..
 
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